All About Rat Care

DRY MIXES:

Store bought rat mixes are GREAT.........IF you want your rats to be unhealthy, malnourished, fat, and unwell. They are not nutritionally complete, and sometimes even contain things which are TOXIC to rats! Such as dried corn. They also usually contain Lucerene, which rats cannot digest. It is primarily used as a filler.

MY Dry mix, they have a constant supply of this mix available 24/7

(Note: Organic ingredients are best wherever possible)

Premium dry dog food (Such as eagle pack, pro-plan, Innova, ect. try to get low protein such as senior)

Wholemeal pasta or veggeroni pasta

Weetbix

Cheerie o's

Corn flakes

Rolled oats

Puffed rice

Pepitas

Puffed corn

Puffed Wheat

All bran/Processed Bran

Natural Almonds

Sunflower seeds

Just Right Cereal

Flax seeds/Linseeds

Rolled Barley

Puffed Millet

White quinoa flakes

Buckwheat

Dried goji berries (every 2nd batch)

This i what my mix looks like when completed:

*Note, i recently decided on adding the white quinoa flakes, buckwheat and dried goji berries, so they are not in the pictured mix below.

They also have a seperate bowl containing CUMMINS rat lab blocks, they are a complete nutritional block, hence they are meeting all there nutritional requirements. Unfortunetley the rat lab blocks available in australia are no where as good as the ones available in america, i am currently seeing if i can get a steady supply of a rat diet called Oxbox Regal Rat, it is american and VERY good, it does NOT use corn as it's first ingredient.

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Veggie mix, they get this once every 2 days, usually in the evening. 

1 Bag of frozen peas

1 Small bag of corn or half a normal bag

1 Bag of frozen veggies

2 Cans of lentils

2 Cans of bean mix

2 Cans of chickpeas

Small bunch of parsley (chopped)

Broccoli

Pumpkin

Sweet potato

Brown rice

Brown pasta

Small can of water chesnuts

Canned bamboo shoots

NOTE: Make sure to cook the

Pasta, rice, pumpkin and sweet potato.

Boiling them will be fine, but if you want to get the most from them I recommend you steam the sweet potato and pumpkin as it preserves the vitamins and minerals better.

Mix everything together and serve.

HINT: freeze the leftovers in the freezer, the best thing to use would be those take-away containers, also if you can, stir the mix every so often as it is freezing, this will make it easier to scoop out the required amount instead of having to defrost the whole container full.

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RATTIE SMOOTHIE

I make up this mix for my ratties every month

They love it and it will insure you have licky babies if you feed it to weaning pups ^^ Also good for mixing in rat medication.

1 Punnet strawberries

2 banannas

1 punnet blueberries

2 tablespoons of honey (manuka if possible)

1 litre organic soy milk

1/4 tin coconut milk

2 tablespoons FARAX baby food powder

Blend all together in a blender, or using a stick blender in a suitable bowl.

Freeze unused portion.

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Fresh fruits/veg 4 times a week (usually three or four things from the list at one time) when in season.

Snow peas/Sugar snap peas

Green beans

Cucumber

Apple

Banana

Watermelon

Rock melon (cantaloupe)

Honeydew

Plums

Strawberries

Cherries

Blueberries

Raspberries

Blackberries

Broccoli

Corn on the cob

Grapes

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I give my ratties some treats every day, that include the following:

Dark Chocolate: Please read important note under caution foods.

Popcorn (plain is best)

Cheese (only rarely)

Yogies! A favourite amoung many a rattie, they go crazy for them! They can be found in pet stores, they are sold as dog yoghurt drops, human ones are not quite as good as they contain lactose.

Greyhound biscuits 4x2: These are especially good for them as they are very hard and they like to nibble on them and they keep there teeth nice and worn down.

Wheatgrass: I grow it in a tub, and give them the tub with the grass in it to play and explore in, and they really like the rass to nibble on. They also like hiding in the grass and pouncing on unsuspecting cagemates ;)

Toasted wholemeal bread (sometimes soaked in olive oil/ buttered with low fat margerine)

Jam

Mung bean sprouts

Mashed potato

Vita wheat biscuits

Ice cream

Apple juice

Muesli bars (yoghurt topped)

Cooked eggs

Baby food

Farax baby meal

Super premium cat dry food (for sick rats, pregnant and nursing mothers only)

Sardines in oil

Pistachio nuts

Philadelphia low fat cream cheese

Cooked chicken and large cooked chicken bones (such as leg and wing bones)

Yoghurt (jalna, yoplait, enrich ect.)

Organic unhomoginised milk (only rarely, although they do love it, it's the same milk i drink)

Dandelion leaves (straight from the garden)

Alfalfa sprouts, they really fiddle with them when they eat them :)

Mealworms, a great treat, good for pregnant and nursing mothers, good protein boost

Mini Teddy bear biscuits

Any healthy table scraps that are not toxic

Dried goji berries

Remember moderation: Like humans, too much of anything is a bad thing.

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EXTREMELY IMPORTAINT!!!!!!!!!

FORBIDDEN FOODS!

Generally, if you would eat a food, you can give it to your rats. Here are some exceptions and notables:

Raw dry beans or peanuts - Contains anti-nutrients that destroy vitamin A and enzymes needed to digest protein and starches, and causes red blood cells to clump.

Raw sweet potato - Contains compounds that form cyanide in the stomach.

Green bananas - Inhibits starch-digesting enzymes.

Green potato skin and eyes - Contain solanine, a toxin.

Wild insects - Can carry internal parasites and diseases.

Raw bulk tofu - Can contain bacteria, packaged raw tofu is safe.

Blue cheese - Contains toxic mold

Poppy Seeds - Can cause neurological damage, or may cause death!

Licorice - Contains a suspected neurotoxin.

Raw red cabbage and brussel sprouts - Contain anti-nutrients that destroys thiamine.　

Raw artichokes - Inhibit protein digestion.

Rhubarb - High levels of oxalates which bind up calcium.

Raw onion - Can lead to anemia and an upset stomach.

Oranges and Orange Juice - Forbidden for male rats only, d-limonene in the skin oil, which gets into the orange juice during squeezing, can cause kidney damage and kidney cancer due to a protein that only male rats have in their kidneys. Pieces of the orange fruit are okay if you wash the orange-skin oil off of it after peeling it so i have heard, but personally i don't risk it.

Carbonated drinks - rats can't burp!

Dried corn - It can have high levels of fungal contaminates which can lead to liver cancer, fresh corn is fine.

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CAUTION FOODS: If you want to let your rats try this food, be careful!

Chocolate - It contains stimulants that can lead to heart failure or neurological poisoning in high quantities. A bit of chocolate is okay and can actually temporarily alleviate respiratory distress.

IMPORTANT NOTE: chocolate contains stimulants that can lead to heart failure or neurological poisoning in high quantities. A bit of chocolate is okay and may actually temporarily alleviate respiratory distress.

Avocados - These are high in fat and are a good treat to feed rats that are in need of "beefing up" (make sure the fruit is ripe). However, the pit, rind, skin and leaves of avocados are toxic. The part of the fruit in contact with the pit has a higher concentration of toxins.

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TOXIC WATER: One source of toxins that’s often overlooked is tap water. If your tap water is fluoridated, DO NOT give Instead give them bottled water, but investigate the quality of the brand you choose. Some bottled waters are nothing more than tap water! Chlorine is also toxic (There is evidence that chlorinated water raises the risk of miscarriage in women in the first trimester!) If your tap water is chlorinated, buy a filter that removes chlorine (such as BrittaPur) and only give your rats filtered water. it to your rats! Fluorine can cause brain damage in rats.

Important articles on rat care:

Informative articles on rat care BY Dapper Rat: Click HERE to go the Dapper Rat's articles on rattie care such as claw clipping, bathing, litter training, free ranging ect. I HIGHLY reccomend that site.

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HOUSING:

There is a multitude of cages out there for your rats, but there are a few factors which determine the right cage for you and your animals. First of all, how much are you willing to spend? How many rats do you want to keep? What type of cage would you prefer? (i.e wire based, wood based, ect.) Are you keeping your cage inside or outside? How much space is there to put the cage?

Well the first and most popular type of cage amoung pet rat owners would probably be the typical black/white 3 storey wire cage with a pull out tray you can find at 99% of pet stores, rougly 60cm high. It is suitable for up to 2 fully grown rats. Good for a first time ratty owner who has a pair of rats. They should get a descent amount of out of cage time though.

Another type of cage is a grotto style cage, many people have made these for there rats and with good cause, they can be completley customized, made to suit any decore and space, and are a good price to make, they are good if you have more than 2 rats, they are typically easy to clean, and easy to reach in the rearange the furnishings, the only downside is if they are not laminated properly they hold smell from urine, and they can be chewed on, or perhaps even through by some determined rats.

Another type of rattie habitat and one that i reccomend for hard core rataholics (such as myself) is a very particular type of cage and is only available from one place, it is like a royal castle for rats, it is called a FERRET KINGDOM cage, it is ONLY available through ebay, i currently own 1. Just type in Ferret Kingdom on ebay, you shall find it.

With any cage, if the shelves are wire, i would reccomend covering them with lino or newspaper so they do not harm ratties feet.

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BEDDING:

Bedding is material used for your cage to keep the cage floor free of droppings, contain odours, and to keep your rat warm and comfortable, there is quite a few types of bedding out there, but i have few that i use and reccomend. Good beddings are ones that will not harm rats delicate respiratory systems, are clean and easy to buy and not too expensive, good beddings are such as follows: For the bottom of the cage/tray: newspaper, clean white office paper, breeders choice cat litter. For the rats to use as nesting material and for inside of sleeping boxes ect.: Carefresh (an american product, very pretty but is expensive, make sure to freeze this bedding for 48 hours prior to use as it CAN harbor mites), old towels/ material scraps (polar fleece is one of the best choices), and paper towels/tissues.

BAD beddings, these are some to steer clear of: Wood shavings, these were used quite frequently many years ago, but it is not until was found out that these wood shavings contain phenols, natural oils from the tree, they are good at absorbing odors and urine, but the oil and the dust greatly harm rats lungs, these are a complete nono.

I have covered most of the basics so far, but here is some important things that people wanting to get a rat might like to know:

Rattie questions and answers, some very important stuff is covered here.

LIFE SPAN

Q: How long will my pet rat live?

A:

The average lifespan of a pet rat is between 2 and 3 1/2 years. However, genetics, husbandry and love will ultimately determine how long your pets live. Animals bred from healthy parents will live longer than those bred from weak and sickly animals, and animals fed a healthy diet and kept in clean cages using the proper bedding will live longer than those fed junk food who live in dirty cages and on wood shavings.

Love and attention can sometimes play a big role in how long your rat will live. A neglected animal will be depressed and sometimes just wither away, while an animal given lots of attention and love will live months beyond its life expectancy because it is happy and has a much stronger will to live.

MALE OR FEMALE

Q: Is there any difference between a male and female rat as a pet?

A:

Both sexes make wonderful pets. Females are smaller and quite a bit more active than males and their fur is softer, they are usually not as cuddley and as affectionate. On the other hand, males are normally happier sitting on your lap and having you scratch their head, they are lazier and more squishie and usually more affectionate, but one of the cons of having males is that they tend to spot mark things. There are exceptions to both of these though.

QUARANTINING

Q: I want to buy some new rats, but how can I be sure I don’t bring home a deadly virus to my existing pet rats.

A:

Any new rat should be quarantined for about 2 weeks to make sure it is not carrying any parasites or diseases. The rat should be housed in a separate cage in a separate room. To ensure that you are doing all you can, be sure to wash and disinfect your hands after handling the new rat and handle the new rat last. Change your clothes if you happen to put the new rat on your clothing while handling it prior to handling your old rats. Watch the new rat closely for any signs of illness, and also watch your old rats for signs of illness. If any symptoms appear, be sure to treat immediately.

CLEANING

Q: What/how should I clean my rat cage?

A: I Clean my cages with a mixture of HOT water and about half a small capfull of plain unscented bleach (at least 1 part bleach to 30 parts water), as well as 1/4 cup of white vinager, this ensures you are killing all germs and keeping the cage clean and fresh. Dont forget to rinse the cage after you have cleaned it with this solution with plain warm water.

WATER

Q: How much water should I give my rat each day?

A:

Rats should always have fresh water available in a demand-type water bottle. Bowls can be tipped over, leaving the rat with no water for long periods of time, depending on how often you check on your pets. They can also be contaminated with all kinds of bacteria due to contact with bedding and feces. The average rat will drink up to two ounces of water per day. Flavoring the water will sometimes make them drink more, and feeding lots of fresh fruits and vegetables containing a lot of moisture will make them drink less.

TOYS

Q: What kind of toys can I put in my rat’s cage?

A:

Wheels are a favorite of most rat owners and can be introduced at any age, but best results are achieved by acquainting the rat with one while it is very young. A rat that is a runner most often remains a runner for life and will spend a great deal of time doing so. Females are more inclined to be runners than males. The best kind of wheel is one that is solid plastic, not with metal spaced bars as the rats tail and feet can get caught in between the bars and they can injure themseves.

PVC pipes make excellent tunnels. Also check out bird toys such as ladders and nut rings. Ferret tents, hammocks, swings and tunnels are usually popular, but they can be expensive and often made of cloth so the rats can chew them up. Large cotton ropes made for birds can be strung across wire cages. Let your imagination run wild!

HEALTH PROBLEMS

Q: What are some of the signs I can look out for to be able to tell if my rat is sick?

A:

Excessive sneezing is extremely common and sometimes a sign of illness. Lethargy, loss of appetite and loss of weight, dull coat, puffy appearance of coat, loud or raspy breathing and labored breathing are all signs of respiratory illness and are a very good indication that your rat needs to see a vet immediately.

Red discharge (porphryin) around the eyes and nose is sometimes a sign that your rat is ill, but can also be present simply due to stress or an irritant such as dust. The harderian gland, which lies behind the rat’s eyeball, secretes a red, porphyrin-rich secretion that lubricates the eye and eyelids. This secretion sometimes gives the appearance of blood, but contains little or no blood.

Head tilt, often called “wry neck” is usually caused by an inner ear infection. The rat should be seen by a vet to determine whether or not the eardrum is still intact and to decide upon the proper course of treatment. If the cause is an infection, it should be treated with antibiotics, but he may also prescribe an ear drop which contains both a topical antibiotic and an anti- inflammatory drug. Another possible cause can be a pituitary tumor, which is more common in older female rats, but can be seen in younger rats and even in male rats. There is no treatment for this condition that will cure it; however, anti-inflammatory drugs such as Prednisone or Dexamethasone may reduce the swelling slightly and prolong the life of the rat for a short time. A stroke is another possibility. Again, it would be more common in older rats, but it is not impossible for a younger rat to have a stroke. Anti-inflammatory drugs may help, but only time will tell if the damage is permanent. In many cases, a full recovery from a stroke can be made in a short period of time (a few days to a week).

Q: What is mycoplasma?

A:

Mycoplasma pulmonis is an organism which all of our rats in the pet population carry. Stress or other illness can make your rat break with an active infection that can lead to pneumonia if left untreated. There is no cure for mycoplasma, but it can be controlled with antibiotics until the very advanced stages of the disease. It is the main cause of rat respiratory illness and is very common.

Mild cases of mycoplasmosis can be treated with non-prescription drugs such as Tetracycline and a natural immune booster herb called echinacea, but in more severe cases you will need to see your vet to obtain stronger antibiotics such as Baytril, Doxycycline, Oxymav and Vibravet.

Q: I just noticed blood coming from the vagina of my one-year old rat for the first time. Do female rats have periods?

A:

No, female rats do not menstruate, so if your female rat is bleeding vaginally then something is wrong and you need to get her to a vet. Vaginal bleeding can be a symptom of a uterine tumor, genital mycoplasmosis, a urinary tract infection, a miscarriage, or the beginning of labor. If you can eliminate a miscarriage or labor from this list, and if after antibiotics have been given to rid her of any infection she is still bleeding, then the only treatment left is to have her spayed.

Spaying will eliminate the problem altogether and may extend her life. Be sure to find a competent vet to perform the surgery. It should cost in the neighborhood of $65 to $150 for the entire procedure. Also make sure that your vet gives you post surgical antibiotics to prevent possible infection. Remember, this surgery involves going into the body cavity and should not be decided upon without considering the risks. If she is a young rat, the benefits will probably outweigh the risks, but if she is very old it may be best to let her live out her life in peace. Many females have bled vaginally on and off for over a year before leaving this world.

Q: My rat got his foot stuck in the wire on the bottom of his cage and now his whole leg is swollen. What should I do?

A:

A trip to the vet for an injection of an anti-inflammatory drug such as Dexamethasone may speed the healing process, but it is imperative that you get the rat into a cage with a solid bottom. Injuries like thse are very common in wire-bottomed cages which is one reason we do not recommend them at all (not to mention ulcerative pododermatis, also known as Bumblefoot).

If the leg is just swollen and there is no breakage of the skin, the anti- inflammatory drug and rest may be all that are required for a quick recovery, but if an open wound is present, you may need to have it cleaned out and have an antibiotic prescribed by your vet as well.

Q: My rat got into a fight and now has an abscess. How do I treat it?

A:

An abscess will frequently break open and drain on its own. In this case, clean the wound with hydrogen peroxide. You can also apply a topical antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin. If it does not break open and drain on its own and becomes hard and continues to grow, wait for a scab to appear on the surface and gently squeeze it, popping the scab allowing the old pus to be forced out. Clean the wound as described above. In all cases of abscesses, if it appears to be making your rat ill, you will need to get your rat to the vet to have it lanced. In all cases of abscesses, you may need to put your rat on oral antibiotics to fight the infection from within.

Q: My rat sways back and forth while standing still. Is something wrong with him?

A:

Rats have poor eyesight and this movement is often used to detect motion. It is more common with pink-eyed rats. This is nothing to worry about, although it is an interesting behavior to watch.

Q: My rat is in pain an no longer has a quality life. Should I have him euthanized?

A:

If your rat is in pain, is no longer eating, drinking, and active, it is time to let go. Unless you have an inhalant anethesia available to you at home (such as Halothane, Isoflurane, or even Chloroform), you will need to take your rat to the vet to be euthanized. Inhalant anethesia overdose, or inhalant anesthesia followed by lethal injection are the only humane methods of euthanasia. Lethal injection in rats is either in the peritoneal cavity (belly) or directly in the heart, both of which are extremely painful if the rat is awake, and, therefore, inhumane. Please INSIST on the gas prior to any lethal injection.

Q: My rat is scratching and has scabs on his face and shoulders. Does he have mites?

A:

It is possible that he has mites, but most often scabs are caused by too much protein in the diet, which causes hot spots that the rats scratch. Try eliminating high-protein items such as sunflower seeds, peanuts and dog food. If the scabs persist, the problem may be mites. The horse-wormer paste products "Zimecterin," "Rotectin 1," "Equalvan," or "Equimectrin" (1.87% Ivermectin) can be used to get rid of mites (or lice, which appear as little red bugs on the skin with tiny eggs on the hair shaft). The dose is a small amount of the paste orally on the end of a toothpick (the size of a uncooked grain of white rice). Repeat dose once a week for three weeks.

Bedding may be dusted lightly with cat flea powder containing carbaryl. Allow the rats to sleep in treated bedding for 1 to 2 weeks to eliminate any hatching eggs.

Q: Is it better to have a rat fixed, as far as health and longevity?

A:

There are both benefits and risks involved with spaying a female rat and neutering a male rat. The obvious benefit for both sexes is that they no longer have reproductive organs that can sometimes cause health problems later in life.

With female rats, removing the reproductive organs will lessen their chances for developing mammary and pituitary tumors, and definitely makes it impossible for her to get cancer of the uterus or genital mycoplasmosis. The risks, on the other hand, are great, as this is a major surgical procedure which should be done while the rat is quite young (for the most benefit), and the vet must go into the body cavity to perform the operation. General anesthesia must be used and can be considered a risk in itself, as any animal could die while under its effects (including humans).

Neutering male rats is most often done to allow the male to live with female rats or to stop aggressive behavior, since testicular cancer is not common in rats. While this procedure is not as invasive as spaying a female rat, it should still be considered dangerous, as general anesthesia is required and post operative infection resulting in abscesses is quite common. After any surgical procedure, you should always be sure your vet sends your rat home with a course of antibiotics.

Q: How can you tell when a female rat is in season?

A:

It happens every four to five days, mostly in the evening hours, for twelve hours at a time. You will quite often see the other female(s) in the cage trying to mount the female in season. If you look at her vaginal opening, it will be open, moist, and kind of purplish in color. If you touch her hind quarters, she will stretch out, putting her nose and rear end in the air, arch her back downwards, and vibrate her ears.

Q: What are the recommended breeding ages (upper and lower) for female rats?

A:

Female rats can get pregnant as early as five to six weeks of age, but they really should not be bred until they are at least 6 months but the best age is around 8 months depending on the size of the female. If they are not bred between the ages of 6 months and 12 months, then they should not be bred at all as it is too risky and will most likely cause injury to the female and her babies and may even result in death. It is best to let a female have no more than 3 litters in her lifetime, as it is very draining on a female to carry and raise a litter of pups.

Q: How long is the gestation period for rats?

A:

21 to 23 days. She will not begin to show her pregnancy until the third week, and will not be interested in nest building until the day before or the day she gives birth.

Q: Does my pregnant or nursing rat need any special care?

A:

Pregnancy and nursing require a lot of nutrients. A good quality dry kitten food, such as Eagle Pack, Pro-Plan, Innova, or Evo will give her the extra protein and fat her body needs at this time. Be sure she also has plenty of her normal diet, fresh veggies and fruit and water available at all times.

Q: What is the average size litter?

A:

The average size litter is 12, but numbers from 1 to 22 are possible. Although the female only has 12 nipples, she can care for many more babies as long as she is getting the proper nutrition. Most females with very large litters will separate the babies into two piles and will alternate feeding each group, therefore, there is no reason to ever consider culling. Finding homes for the highest possible number of babies should be something you consider before you decide to breed.

Q: Can I keep the male in with the female when she has her babies?

A:

The female will go into season within 24 hours of giving birth and can become pregnant again right away. It is not healthy for her to be pregnant and nursing a litter at the same time. It is recommended that the female be given a rest period of at least 4 months between pregnancies and litter rearing to restore her body to full strength.

Q: Can I keep two females together while one or both has babies?

A:

This is not recommended. Although some females will share the responsibilities of raising their families without any problems, there are other females who will steal all of the babies and try to nurse them herself. These females most often will not let the other mother get near her babies. This may not be a problem with small litters, but is with large litters since the female will not be able to produce enough milk to feed all of the babies and many may die. It has also been reported that a female has gone berserk and killed all of the babies of another female. Why take the chance? It is very easy to set up two tanks for the mothers to raise their babies separately. It is much less stressful for them this way.

Q: When should the babies be weaned?

A:

The babies should be left with the mother for a minimum of five weeks. You can leave the mother with the female babies up until 6 weeks old if you wish.

Q: At what age do male and female baby rats need to be separated in order to prevent early breeding?

A:

The general rule is to separate male and female babies from by the time they are five weeks old, this will ensure that they the males don't get there sisters pregnant, and the males should also be sepperated from mother at that time, remove mum from her daughters at 6 weeks. 

IMPOTENCE

Q: Do male rats become impotent or infertile with age?

A:

Some males who have been used for breeding while they are somewhat young will breed almost until the day they die, and some have been known to continue to breed but lose their ability to impregnate the female (become infertile). If a male has not been used for breeding while young, he will sometimes not be interested in breeding at all. It is rare but females have been known to be barron.

TEETH GRINDING

Q: When my rat is sitting with me, sometimes her head shivers slightly and she makes funny noises with her teeth as if chewing on something, but she's not eating. Is this "teeth grinding"? Is it similar to cat purring?

A:

Yes, this is teeth grinding and they always seem to do this while they are very content. They also grind their teeth to keep them at the proper length (as food really has nothing to do with keeping them short) and this could simply be what they are doing.